Sweets & drinks · Sichuan

Gaiwan Tea House Culture

盖碗茶 — Chengdu’s answer to the café: bamboo chairs, lidded gaiwan cups of jasmine or Maojian tea, ear-cleaners and card games — an afternoon institution older than…

Gaiwan Tea House Culture

Heming Teahouse in People’s Park is the living museum of this: rows of bamboo armchairs, a constant refill circuit ("long-spout" pouring performances included), sunflower seeds, and the option of having your ears cleaned professionally while you sip. The tea itself — jasmine, bamboo-leaf green, chrysanthemum — costs a couple of dollars and buys the table for the day.

It is the slowest and cheapest luxury in Sichuan, and it explains the local temperament better than any museum. Order the "mengding ganlu" green if offered, watch the retirees, and let the afternoon go where it wants.

Where to eat it

  • Heming Teahouse, People’s Park (Chengdu)
  • Any old-tile teahouse in Shuangliu or Pengzhou

Named tables that do it well

Routes that eat their way here

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