Dim sum & bakery · Shanghai / Jiangnan

Xiaolongbao

小笼包 — Soup dumplings: pork-and-broth parcels whose "soup" is aspic melted by steam. Shanghai is the home ground, and the discipline of a good wrapper is measurable…

Xiaolongbao

The trick of xiaolongbao is stock set with gelatin, chopped solid into the filling, then re-liquefied by the steaming basket. The etiquette follows: nibble a hole in the skin, sip the broth, dip in black vinegar with ginger, eat in one or two bites. Order by the steamer, not the piece.

Shanghai’s Nanxiang claim the original at the Yu Garden tourist house, while Wu You Xian earned a Michelin star for crab versions — roe, tomalley and combinations thereof, each with its own vinegar. In October to December, go crab.

Where to eat it

  • Wu You Xian (Michelin-starred, crab xiaolongbao)
  • Nanxiang Mantou Dian at Yu Garden (the original)
  • Zhi Wei Guan in Hangzhou for the local style

Named tables that do it well

Routes that eat their way here

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