A restored earth-building compound in Taxia village, run as a cultural retreat: twenty-odd rooms inside rammed-earth walls, wooden galleries, and a programme of paper-cutting, tea and Hakka cooking with village teachers.
Fujian packs three different Chinas into one province: the Hakka earth buildings inland, the Arab-and-Indian trading port on the coast, and the colonial island of Xiamen. Five days, one high-speed line, no backtracking.